A long-distance triathlon in Swedish Lapland, 70 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle. Start time at midnight, because it's light all night. Maximum 100 participants. One of them is Denise Kottwitz, a triathlete from Berlin. She embarked on the Laponia N67 Triathlon adventure: a race report of a very special kind.
The preparation
I don't know how many times I open and close laponiatriathlon.com: too far away, too hard, too cold, too lonely. But the pictures of the race and one or two reports on the internet captivate me, even the horror stories from 2019 don't finally scare me off. After the shortened swim, it rained all night at three degrees and even the run had to be shortened because of bad weather. It's probably my optimistic nature hoping for manageable weather conditions and so I register. The entry fee of around 240 euros is more of a bargain, but you have to invest a little more in the journey. Although for us the reason for the trip is actually a holiday in northern Sweden and the triathlon is just the occasion.
The preparation doesn't differ much from any other long-distance race, except that I voluntarily get on my bike in five degrees during the cold months. The long runs or a few paddock units often involve loose forest paths. Competition catering will be provided by a Swedish supplier. But with more effort, I can also get these for training, and I'm relieved to see that I can tolerate drinks and gels and even like them. The bars are awfully cute, but you can take your own with you on the bike.
The arrival
For us, the only way to get there is to bring our own car, because I take everything with me. Winter bike shoes and normal, thick and thin overshoes, rain overshoes and for the toes, thick socks and thin ones, rain jacket, winter jacket, thinner jacket, waistcoat, short-sleeved shirt, sleeveless, undershirts, rain trousers, shorts, winter trousers – as I said, I take everything with me. However, we find a very convenient way to get there: by ferry from Travemünde to Helsinki (the sea day is very relaxing and a treadmill is available for a small unit) and then by car night train to Rovaniemi on the Arctic Circle. After a short detour to see Santa Claus, it's still a good 300 kilometers to the competition site in Gällivare.
We are there four days before the race. So I can ride part of the bike route again, explore the running route (I choose trail shoes), get to know the local swimming pool and get used to the climatic conditions. Sounds funny, but I'm surprised how warm it is when the polar sun is shining: you can easily walk in shorts at 16 degrees. A sprint triathlon will be held on Thursday evening. We go and watch: the water is almost 19 degrees (in the last two weeks it has been up to thirty degrees in Lapland) but there is a strong wind. Organization on site looks very professional, the people are very relaxed. Me too: the swim will definitely be full length and the weather forecast says not a drop of rain, no even sunshine all night at around eight degrees.
It is getting serious
You can pick up the starting documents on Friday afternoon. The envelope contains the obligatory numbers, change bag and bathing cap. You can take a fabric bag designed by local artists and fill it as needed: I take a book of poems by a local writer, a scarf and of course the offered mosquito repellent. The race briefing follows immediately: 29 men and 9 women are registered. The presentation leaves no questions unanswered. I'm surprised that such a small race even offers an athlete tracker. Swimming will probably only be 16 degrees (a cold current and wind since yesterday's sprint triathlon), but neoprene shoes are allowed. When cycling, it is repeatedly pointed out that it will certainly be colder than you think. That also gives me a headache: on the one hand, you will start to sweat quite a bit on the climbs, on the other hand, the lack of sleep will certainly make itself felt.
It starts in 12 hours
I stick to my plan: undershirt, cycling jacket, knee warmers (which tend to cover the whole leg given my short legs), thick socks, shoes with toe protection. To be on the safe side, I also take heat pads for toes and hands with me, they don't take up much space. There is also a note that little wind but many mosquitoes are to be expected. Mosquito repellent is available at all supply stations. Attention is also drawn to the reindeer, who like to stand in the middle of the road and won't give way - so it's worth lifting your head out of the aero position from time to time. Then there is a nice exchange with the experienced participants, for example that you only need a wind jacket for the run if you are probably not going to run anymore. There are only three toilets along the entire route, but it is noted that finding a private spot should not be a problem. My interpretation: I'd rather pack another Tempo handkerchief, although fortunately I never have to deal with stomach problems. After the meeting there is a small lunchtime snack, but eating something unfamiliar is too delicate for me twelve hours before the race. I have a short chat with Daniel, a German repeat offender in the race, and then I go home to relax.
The last check
I force myself into bed for about four hours, even dozing off briefly. But the time of the evening does not want to pass. I pack the change bags within seconds. Around eight o'clock I have my competition breakfast with two coffees. A film is supposed to pass the time, but I'm too excited for that. Finally the clock jumps to 10 p.m., finally getting dressed, finally packing things into the car, finally it’s time to start. Check-in is also very quick with the small number of participants. My bike is put through its paces, so not just a quick look to see if the brakes are working. The competition judge throws himself full force on the handlebars and saddle. I ask myself: how tricky will the route be, especially the descents? Because a check like this has never happened to me before, not even in many Swedish races.
It starts!
After checking in, we sit in the car for a while: the temperature outside is around ten degrees, but the mosquitoes are almost unbearable. Then it's a snap: get the bags ready. Most importantly, wrap a hot bottle of tea in a towel. That will be the first refreshment on the bike. Then into the neo, cap on and shoes on. Short warm-up: I feel the temperature is manageable.
12:00 a.m., the sun is behind the mountain and there are still a few clouds in the sky. The starting shot is fired, 7 women and 22 men finally plunge into the water. It goes in long and flat, the ground is very muddy. I am happy about the neo shoes. While the larger men around me are still running, I have to use dolphin jumps to keep up. I ended up in third place in a small group of four, I couldn't have done better. I find the pace quite exhausting, and I start to ponder whether it isn't too high. But on the way back to shore, the sun reflects below the surface, so the fascination with this play of light distracts me. Going ashore is extremely strenuous.
The leader of our group is the first to go into the water again, I can hardly keep up on the flat water passage. I'm swimming again, then he gets up again and takes three steps and promptly he's gone. The other two fell away backwards. I only have one chance - I have to get back to the man in front, otherwise the second part will be very difficult. It's going to be quite a struggle and it's only on the sun-kissed Heimgrade that I manage to merge. Then the second shore leave: my husband continues to confirm the lead in the women, but I only have one goal: round three in the water shadow. I don't lose sight of the other athletes, fight until he starts swimming too. Done, I don't have to spend the third round alone. On the home straight we pick up another swimmer, the eventual winner of the men's race, and so it's back on land. Here we are greeted with loud cheers by the helpers and supporters of the participants. My watch reads almost 4100 meters, so we actually swam about 3.8 km and added the long shore walk.
Get on the bike
Changing is easy despite all the clothes, I only want to put on gloves on the bike when my hands are really dry again. The first kilometer is a gravel bike path, but it rides quite well, except that I'm pretty cold. I put on my gloves on firm asphalt and treat myself to warm tea. It goes on the through road through the village, which leads to a four-lane expressway. There is dead silence, the sun is up but not shining on us athletes. It's cold but I find it doable with the prospect of an uphill climb. Plus, whizzing down the empty expressway is totally insane. An athlete overtakes me, at a crossroads the marshal cheers “nice bike!”. Another piece of expressway for me alone, but I have to admit to myself: I didn't wear enough for the speed. The expected climb is coming, eight kilometers uphill with gradients of two to seven percent. Looking at the watt values, I can get up quite well, but I don't get warm. However, I keep getting distracted with fantastic views. At the end of the climb there are a few cheering fans (probably supporters of some participants) and someone has taken the trouble to paint everyone's name on the street. Once at the top it goes downhill in funny waves and then uphill again. To the right is a lake reflecting the adjacent mountain in the sunlight. What a natural spectacle, I forget freezing again.
After 35 kilometers there is a turning point with a supply station. Because my fingers are cold, I can't pick up a new beverage bottle, it falls down and I have to stop for a moment. But there are warm words from the helpers. Back through the village of Tjautjas. Unbelievable, here is a family cheering at the garden fence. At 2:30 a.m. for less than thirty crazy triathletes. Then it goes downhill. A woman overtakes me, she shouts something at me and has a speed that I can't even begin to keep up with. For me, the breathtaking view over the lake is on the program again and then full concentration on the road leading down, which has quite a few bumps. Technically, I'm good at everything, but I'm freezing like a tailor. After the race I find out that the temperature has dropped to five degrees.
It's finally getting warmer
Back in Gällivare, the first 70 kilometers with about 500 meters of altitude have been mastered. Now the sun is finally making its way over me. I'm still thinking about how long it will take to warm up again and, above all, how much energy the whole thing costs me. At the end of the village I make the decision: stop, pee break and heat pads in shoes and gloves. Nobody overtakes me during the stop, I only catch 10 mosquito bites. All worth it, because with the sun in the sky I get back to operating temperature and the flatter part of the route - 55 km to Nattavara and back with a total of another 600 meters in altitude - can come.
Go on
To the right and left there is still a picture-book panorama with small lakes and lots of forest. It rolls quite well, then there are small climbs again, but you don't see them and you keep asking yourself why you suddenly have to fight so hard. Another supply station at waypoint 82 km brings variety, because otherwise I'm on my own. At some point I think "What's coming?". Oh yes, three houses. I haven't seen houses for a while.
I'm happy when the leaders of the race come towards me shortly before Nattavaara. There are still a few drivers in the village itself, but not all of them, because there is a small loop of about three kilometers on the way back. Too bad I can't make out the woman in front of me or the pursuers. There is another supply station, I take drinks and am happy about the offered cinnamon roll. In the turning loop it goes uphill again nasty. I curse the organizer: I don't have an overview in the field and to top it all off I have to get out of the saddle. The summit is mastered, take a deep breath and enjoy!!! If you take the most beautiful photograph of Lapland, the scenery is right at my feet: sun, lake, trees. Moor with mountains in the background. I withdraw all allegations immediately.
You can also go back on the bike. I am then overtaken by an athlete and soon lose sight of him. It's quite warm now, so I take the heat pads out of my gloves and let my legs breathe a little.
About 30 kilometers to go, the summit of Dundret, the highlight of the marathon in the truest sense of the word, becomes clearer and clearer. I don't want to think about running yet because I'm struggling a lot now. At this point at the latest, I'm missing a few competitors and cheering spectators. However, it is only now that it occurs to me that the lack of sleep and the struggle with the cold have cost more energy than previously thought. Whining doesn't help, kicking does. As if called for, there is still a change: two reindeer in front of me on the road. Mom is on the left lane, baby is on the right. So driving through the middle is probably not a good idea. The reindeer are probably also surprised at my funny shape and leave the road, but continue to watch with interest as I drive by.
Off to the transition zone
Back in Gällivare, a good-natured marshal welcomes me, and I take the bike path to the transition area. I meet two athletes running, and then I'm greeted in the transition area as the leading woman. Oh, the athlete probably shouted to me that night that she was going to stop the race. This realization gives you wings when changing, and it starts routinely. The first kilometer is flat, I immediately realize that I was riding my bike too hard. My thighs hurt, I don't have to brake at all so I don't start running too fast. But the extensive athletic training is noticeable, I can stand upright without any problems and yet somehow put one foot in front of the other. Speed doesn't matter anymore anyway, because it's going uphill.
41 minutes ahead
The first supply is at almost five kilometers. My husband is waiting for me here, he makes a video for home and follows me a few meters: I'm 41 minutes ahead of the second woman! That's a street number, so the bike was a bit too hard, but unless there's a top runner behind me, I should be able to pull through with tired legs. A lot of optimism when you still have 37 kilometers to run with a not inconsiderable 700 more meters of altitude difference!
According to the altitude profile, the following five kilometers run at about the same altitude. Haha, it's a cross-country ski slope, nice waves up and down. So actually waves, so steep that I'm almost on all fours. This is how I have to go the first time, so I want to and am immediately attacked by a swarm of mosquitoes. I reach the second supply station, thrashing about wildly and keeping to a running pace. Here I first head for the mosquito repellent, then there is food. My husband gives the go-ahead that the pursuit is not significantly faster.
Next stage: tar road downhill, a straight piece of country road, then it goes into the forest. A slightly wider path. Small streams have to be crossed on narrow boards, so I prefer to cross them slowly. Since the athletes are tracked by manually entering the helper posts, the supervisors at the next station already know about my guidance. You want to extend your congratulations, but I would like to point out that "this is a marathon, you never know". And immediately the helpers confirm "Yes, you never know". A few meters further on, you turn off the main path. Clearly marked by orange arrows, as has been the case on the entire route so far, it goes through a deep black mud mud and then immediately sinks into the moor. Great, now the left foot is wet too. It's a good thing that the temperatures are now around twenty degrees, so everything dries quickly. Then follows a beautiful hiking trail, with small and large stones, roots and whatever you wish for. When you can get your legs just a few millimeters off the ground, it's torture. I stumble, but luckily I can catch myself. This uncontrolled movement triggers a sharp pain, so someone would try to rip my leg off. I have to be more careful, I tell myself. I stumble again and someone pulls my other leg. So it's better to walk a few steps, because, as we have just established, "... you never know". The turning point is a painted tree in the forest, a marshal with a camera is still waiting here.
Half done
On the way back I meet my pursuer. She is also a cheerful person and we cheer each other on. Sara is now at the sixth edition for the sixth time, although she also has a three-day journey from southern Sweden. Shortly thereafter, Bernhard, the other German in the field who lives in Sweden, overtakes me. Just at that moment Daniel comes towards us, very funny that we three Germans meet here at the same time.
Back on the street, Bernhard runs away from me with a "we'll have half in a moment". Phew, only half - just don't think about it. Because now it's going up, steeply up. Short stop at the supply, then it gets even steeper. Bernhard goes in front of me, me too. But I can motivate myself to run again on the less steep passages and I'm slowly getting back to him.
Cars keep coming by on the steep mountain road. Very slowly and with a respectful distance. Either the windows are rolled down and people are shouting or they jump out of the car and cheer at the top of their lungs. From kindergarten children to pensioners, everything is included. Once two little girls stand next to me cheering. “Did you ride your bike all night too?” asks one. I get goosebumps and tears well up in my eyes. What better way to sum up what crazy stuff you're doing right now? I agree to the girl's request and take the excited children's eyes with me to the next few meters.
I pass Bernhard, he's fighting with his stomach. Too bad, I wanted to motivate him to do something together. So it goes on alone. At the last supply station before the summit, my husband cheers me on again, a gel and drinks are also just needed. The three helpers at this station have a rather taciturn character, at least they don't say a peep, no matter what and in which language I say something.
On the way back I meet my pursuer. She is also a cheerful person and we cheer each other on. Sara is now at the sixth edition for the sixth time, although she also has a three-day journey from southern Sweden. Shortly thereafter, Bernhard, the other German in the field who lives in Sweden, overtakes me. Just at that moment Daniel comes towards us, very funny that we three Germans meet here at the same time.
Back on the street, Bernhard runs away from me with a "we'll have half in a moment". Phew, only half - just don't think about it. Because now it's going up, steeply up. Short stop at the supply, then it gets even steeper. Bernhard goes in front of me, me too. But I can motivate myself to run again on the less steep passages and I'm slowly getting back to him.
Cars keep coming by on the steep mountain road. Very slowly and with a respectful distance. Either the windows are rolled down and people are shouting or they jump out of the car and cheer at the top of their lungs. From kindergarten children to pensioners, everything is included. Once two little girls stand next to me cheering. “Did you ride your bike all night too?” asks one. I get goosebumps and tears well up in my eyes. What better way to sum up what crazy stuff you're doing right now? I agree to the girl's request and take the excited children's eyes with me to the next few meters.
I pass Bernhard, he's fighting with his stomach. Too bad, I wanted to motivate him to do something together. So it goes on alone. At the last supply station before the summit, my husband cheers me on again, a gel and drinks are also just needed. The three helpers at this station have a rather taciturn character, at least they don't say a peep, no matter what and in which language I say something.
It goes to the goal
Then it goes on a wide hiking trail to the top of Dundret. Not too steep, smooth ground, magnificent view of the snow-capped mountains of the neighboring national parks, all of which belong to the Laponia Conservation Area. Hence the name of the triathlon, the number 67 stands for the northern degree of latitude where we are at the moment. There are also a few cheering hikers on the way, so there is plenty of atmosphere on the running route. I suddenly have a craving for coffee and muse to myself, as they say “a kingdom for a cup of coffee” in Swedish. Before I find the answer, I'm on the summit and am cheered on with a loud ringing of cowbells. There is no official supply station here, but you could have everything - even coffee! Not giving in to temptation, I turn and run down again. At the bottom, I take a gel containing caffeine, the three gentlemen are still silent.
My pursuer is just turning onto the summit ascent, so I still have a good lead, so I just have to get to the finish. At a slow pace, my legs can't do any more, but at least I can still walk, it's downhill on the path we walked up. Here and there a few cheers from the car. I'm a bit concerned about the hilly ski trail but the mosquitoes have gone and with two short walk breaks on the steeper climbs I can handle that part too.
My husband gives me one last boost of motivation at the last supply station, just under five kilometers away - downhill, so to speak. But only almost, because on the horizon I see Elias, at 18 the youngest participant in the field, walking over a small hill. "I'm not stopping now," I tell myself. But then it's the last kilometers of a marathon and you have to fight quite hard not to go. I think about how lucky I've been so far – especially with the weather. Although, it's pretty warm at the moment. And then I register: I'm going! I scold myself and immediately continue at a run. I've already arrived at the shore of the lake when Bernhard comes at a tremendous pace from behind, "Come on, let's break the 14 hours". I didn't have an eye on the overall time, but I can't keep up with him. He can still get close to Elias, who also steps on the gas again. I keep my pace and hear the cowbells and congratulations from afar. A long boardwalk leads to the finish, I look at my watch, but it changes.
14 hours and 3 seconds for 226 kilometers through the midsummer night sun of Lapland with summit ascent. 7 women dared to start today, 5 will finish. I can call myself the winner and am incredibly grateful, especially to the organizers for this unique triathlon experience and to the weather gods for the feasible conditions.
A helper asks me what she can bring me. I actually have to think about it, I don't have any great cravings and I immediately sign a bee for the successfully completed diet. She asks me if I like a beer. I find this proposal so unbelievable that I agree immediately. I get my finisher shirt, which comes out in the same design but different colors every year. This year in blue and yellow as a tribute to Ukraine. Instead of a medal there is a picture. I also get the long-awaited coffee and have a good bite of fruit and potato chips. They also have giant sandwiches, but I'm not a big fan of those.
I'm still waiting for Sara at the finish and we hug like longtime friends. She wants to jump into the lake, I want to take a shower in our holiday home (unfortunately, there is no possibility of that on site). I'm still using the tracking to ensure that everyone makes it to the finish line. If you've already covered a long distance by 2:00 p.m., you can still spend the afternoon eating, drinking, lying around, washing your clothes and communicating with home. I'm surprised that I don't go to bed until about eight. After eight hours of sleep, that is four o'clock in the morning, I'm wide awake again. I'm amazed when I see the first photos of the competition published. At some point I fall asleep again and by Sunday I'm back to my normal day-night rhythm.
The award ceremony
The award ceremony will take place at noon. Nice to see the athletes and many of the helpers (there were 73 in total) again. The three first-placed men did unbelievable performances, they have all started the race several times and some of them live here. Long-distance triathletes living in Lapland must be of a very special breed, because at the end of May there is still snow here and the lake is still frozen! I get a Sami knife as the winner's prize.
There is also a prize for the fastest transition time in the triathlon. During the very cold races, times of more than half an hour and more can come together. Since there is also a women's classification here, I finally get a prize in the discipline that I've always mastered well. There is a hat and scarf from the running sports club "Gällivare Endurance Club". Afterwards, some prizes will be raffled off among the participants and helpers. Daniel is loudly happy that he can take a cup with him as a souvenir. Then there is lunch (also included in the entry fee), so you have some time to chat with the athletes.
Conclusion
My verdict on this race: Great! The weather component is a risk that everyone has to deal with themselves. Fighting through the night is tough, but a unique experience. Otherwise you get a perfectly organized competition: fantastic route, well marked, only one bike and only one run (i.e. 222 km of new views), route length very precise (if you accept the approx. 300 m run on the shore of the swim. The cycle route had to be adjusted at short notice due to a construction site, but was set back to 180 km), supply stations with location and offer exactly as announced or with an extended offer, excellent refreshment at the finish. In addition, there are many small additional amenities, such as lunch when the start numbers are handed out and the award ceremony, prize draws and photos of the route being made available free of charge.
I don't want to rule out whether I will repeat this race again. But I'm sure of one thing: it won't be my last adventure triathlon and I'll definitely keep an eye out for long-distance triathlons outside of the big races.
